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How a village staircase became more famous than the mayor

Belmez — a village better known for mining than for flower displays — put Córdoba back in bloom with its award-winning patios. No Hollywood sets here, just true Andalusian ingenuity: a botijo (a clay water jug that cools better than our fridge) and empedrados (pebble floors that turn into natural air-conditioning the moment you throw a bucket of water over them). Clever and beautiful — Andalusia in a nutshell.

Our search for Andalusian patios

This spring we took things up a gear in Córdoba with a Dutch cycling guide. The official patio week was over, but he knew the hidden gates. Before we knew it, we were wandering through award-winning courtyards.

A local proudly showed us his botijo. We thought, “Ah, just a jug.” Until he demonstrated that it cools more efficiently than our fridge on standby. Moments later we found ourselves standing on a pebble floor that absorbed the heat. Natural air-con 2.0 — no app, no subscription, no charging cable.

The rich tradition of the patio competition

The Fiesta de los Patios is UNESCO World Heritage and every year in early May the flower festival of Córdoba. Less known is the provincial competition. Villages compete in categories such as Patios, Rejas con Balcones and Rincones Típicos — like a Eurovision Song Contest, but for flowerpots and balcony railings.

Belmez wins with Rincones Típicos

In 2024, Belmez won first prize with the staircase leading up to the castle (la escalera del castillo). In 2025 they took home second prize as well. By now, that staircase is more famous than the mayor — and probably photographed more often too.

From Andalusian tradition to our own dream patio

For us, the visit was about more than counting flowers. It showed us how Andalusia lives with the seasons and clever traditions. And of course we started dreaming: what if our own patio one day becomes such a cool, welcoming place?

For now, it’s still competing in the category “work in progress”. But imagine this:
- jasmine climbing the walls,
- lavender glowing purple in midsummer,
- rosemary growing wild and generous,
- and a passionflower doing its own thing regardless of the rules.

No classic geraniums for us — but our own mix. Perhaps not a first-prize winner, but certainly the patio that feels like ours.

 FAQ – Frequently Asked Questions

What is the Fiesta de los Patios?
An annual flower festival in Córdoba, recognised by UNESCO.

Why did Belmez win a prize?
For the staircase to the castle, which suddenly gained near-monument status.

What makes Andalusian patios unique?
They’re beautiful and clever at the same time: shade, water, coolness and hospitality in one.

From a village staircase more famous than the mayor to our own patio-in-the-making. Sometimes it’s not about winning, but about creating places that truly come alive.